Exploring our heritage in the Scottish Highlands
Because my maiden name is Gregory, I've always known I was descended from Clan MacGregor. Recently my brother traced our line back to an 8 year old kid named Daniel MacGregor who was put on a boat with his 10 year old brother Duncan in 1690, by their father, to escape the political situation following the overthrow of James II in 1688 and a subsequent land grab by Clan Campbell.
We think they came from around Glen Orchy so I looked for a place to stay around that area. There aren't many places up here, and most are way out of our price range. I found this adorable little hut about an hour south in a lovely spot.
We took two days getting here from Wales by train. The first part of Thursday was great.
We had to change trains in Crewe and the second one was delayed about an hour, then when we got on it was standing room only because another train had been canceled altogether and the passengers were put on ours.
There was another delay because of other delayed trains taking up all the platforms at Preston station. All this was apparently caused by trespassers on the tracks. We finally got to sit for the last hour of the trip, but we got into Glasgow late. Our hotel was just across the street, but we still have way too much baggage even after shipping two bags. To complicate matters, I was notified that those two bags are stuck in customs in Indianapolis and I needed to fill out a form differently. We finally got to our room, got dinner delivered, got the form printed at the front desk, filled it out and sent it to FedEx. It was midnight before we got to bed. The kids were disappointed because they had their hearts set on a certain restaurant in Glasgow but it closed while we were still on the train and the takeout we ended up with wasn't very good. I was just stressed and exhausted.
Friday was better. The hotel breakfast was great. We took a taxi to another station had just a short train ride to Stirling. I took another taxi to get our rental, picked up the kids and bags, we got lunch and groceries. The hard part about Stirling is there's no place to park. I was fine following Google maps, but we'd get to where we were going and they're weren't any spots so everything took longer than we expected. We saw the castle, but didn't have time to go in. We did get the one pound coins we need for electricity here, but we didn't have time for laundry. Actually, the drive up to the hut wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, and it's light really late, so we maybe could have stayed in Stirling a bit longer. As it was, we got here in time to unload and have dinner and then everyone realized how exhausted we were and crashed.
The exploring began Saturday and it's beautiful. Our distant cousin Rob Roy lived here for a while.
We're at the intersection of Loch Doine and Loch Voil, beside a little stream that flows into Loch so we can hear water flowing.
There's a little stone beach
A standing stone circle
Trees to climb
Sticks and rubbish for creating weapons
…and beautiful views of the lochs.
All this right here. We're going to love it!
We took Sunday off to rest and play around the farm. Monday we took a fairly long hike to Invernenty ruin which is supposedly ancient MacGregor land. Somehow the MacLaren's got it, and Rob Roy was wounded fighting for it. I've read some accounts that the wound was fatal, and others that he died of old age. The first part of the walk was a hard scramble up the hill behind the hut to the road. After that it was beautiful.
We weren't entirely sure which spot was the actual ruin of house walls as opposed to pasture walls, but the whole area is beautiful.
There's a pretty little river and waterfall.
We think perhaps the house was on the other side.
On the way back we took a path down to the Loch and walked along the shore which took us to the hut much more easily.
Tuesday was beautiful. We devoted the day to MacGregor and Campbell heritage. Clan Thompson was a pict of Clan Campbell so the boys have both. Apparently, the MacGregors and Campbells united when it suited them as well, according to what we learned.
We started the day at Rob Roy's Grave.
Then continued on to Finlarig Castle, which belonged to the Campbells, but apparently Rob Roy visited often.
Sean was particularly interested in the hanging tree and beheading pit.
We were going to go to Achallader Castle as well, but it was a long walk from where we were asked to park, and it's apparently pretty ruined and surrounded by modern farm buildings. That one was built by Campbells, but burned by MacGregors twice. We connected on, and drove the length of Glen Orchy, the original MacGregor stronghold.
The road goes right along the river Orchy and is very beautiful.
This is Easan Duban waterfall.
We carried on, stopped a few more times for pictures, and all loved this spot where the river widens just before you get back on the highway.
It was a wonderful day.
Wednesday was more practical. We went to Callandar to use the laundromat, get groceries, mail a postcard, and get more 1 pound coins for the electric meter. It's a tourist town for sure, but it had the things we needed. We did have lunch in a nice café while our clothes washed, and the kids checked out Dunmore Fort while I stayed with the car because I didn't know where to park. It's just an old hill Fort, no structure, and they're more into military history than I am. I do miss having babies, but it's so nice that they can do things without me when that's the most efficient.
We went to a woollen mill and spent way too much money, so here's my little Scottish gate man in his Thompson tartan tam.
Thursday was another long exploring day. We went to the MacGregors’ ancient burial ground on Inchailloch Island in Loch Lomond. As a symbolic coincidence, the ferry turned out to be named Margaret, the name of my grandmother.
The island was beautiful, somewhat busy, but not terribly considering the beautiful weather, and felt very peaceful.
This is the grave of Chief Gregor MacGregor.
This is what's left of the church.
We continued our walk around the island.
Then stopped for lunch with some swans and ducks. Sean had his own lunch spot.
The kids made a little boat.
After the return ferry trip we went to Flanders Moss, an unusual raised bog, and another place fleeing MacGregors found refuge.
There is more to see, but we were tired and took Friday off. I had work to do for my Masters. The kids have some downloaded entertainment, but no wi-fi. They've been spending more time together and getting along pretty well. This is such a beautiful place. Having a free day here was good.
Saturday was cleaning and packing and playing outside. I took a last walk before the kids were up. I hadn't been doing my solo morning walk because we were walking so much during the day and it was nice to get back to it.
Sunday I took one last beautiful walk.
That's our hut.
I got the kids up, we ate breakfast, finished packing and cleaning and drove to Stirling. I left them and the luggage at the train station and returned the car, then we took the train to Glasgow. By the time we got a taxi to our hotel near the airport, everyone was done and not wanting to go back out. We really wanted Italian so we had it delivered to our hotel.
Monday was our last day of traveling with just the three of us. We had a nice hotel breakfast and met a doggy friend while waiting for our taxi.
Even the view from the airport is prettier than average.
That was leaving Glasgow. We were supposed to get home Monday night, but that turned out to be another adventure, thus another post.